Hyundai Tucson Complaints

6,738 consumer complaints on file.

#11454968March 3, 2022
POWER TRAIN, ENGINE
very bad acceleration from a stop position, engine revs but does not move, in slow traffic it hesitates and lunges forward like it’s not sure what it’s suppose to do, when trying to merge or pass another car, you have to give yourself time, it’s very dangerous, took it to the dealer 2 times, was told that’s how the car is made, there is no way this is suppose to be the way the car was built. also a smell of antifreeze but no leaks detected,
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11455006March 3, 2022
ENGINE
SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR, THERE HAVE BEEN INTERMITTEN TIMES WHEN THE CAR HESITATES AND DOES NOT ACCELERATE AFTER BEING STUCK IN TRAFFIC. IT IS BOGGED DOWN AND DOES EVENTUALLY MOVE. WHEN THIS ORIGINALLY HAPPENED THE VECHILCE WAS BROUGHT IN TO THE DEALER AND THEY ADVISED THERE WAS A RECALL FOR TRANSMISSION PROGRAMMING AND THAT WAS DONE. PRIOR TO 100,000 MILES ON THE CAR, THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND I WAS TOLD THIS WOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM. BUT IT DID NOT - THE BOGGING AND HESITATION HAPPENED LESS FREQUENTLY, BUT CONTINUED. IN 2021, I HAD TO REPLACE THE TURBO BECAUSE THE VECHILE WAS BOGGING DOWN AND THE CODES INDICATED IT WAS THE TURBO. AFTER THE TURBO WAS REPLACED, MY CAR BEGAN BURNING SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF OIL. SOMETIMES, I COULD GO 2,000 miles, others only 1,000 and most recently 250-500 MILES BEFORE MY CAR WOULD START BOGGING AGAIN AND NEED 2 QUARTS OF OIL. AFTER FILLING MY CAR IN EARLY FEBRUARY WITH OIL AND DRIVING LESS THAN 100 MILES, MY CAR STARTED BOGGING AND SPUTTERING WHILE DRIVING AND MAKING AWFUL NOISE. THE CODES INDICATED IT NEEDED COILS, WHICH I HAD REPLACED BUT THE ENGINE HAS NO COMPRESSION. AFTER READING AND RESEARCHING THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE 2016 TUCSON 1.6T AND A DEFECT THAT WAS CORRECTED IN THE ENGINE IN 2018. HYUNDAI SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS AND BE REQUIRED TO MAKE OWNERS WHOLE.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454849March 2, 2022
SERVICE BRAKES, ENGINE
I was in a turning lane & a driver swerved in front of me. My car is equipped with auto start stop and it was on. I slammed on my brakes and the engine turned off. When I tried to start restart the car there was a fluttering/grinding noise. Turned off the key and restarted the car. Dangerous in the intersection with a stalled car. At the dealer now but not optimistic. Annoying to have to turn off feature each time.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454627March 1, 2022
UNKNOWN OR OTHER
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Tucson. The contact stated that the vehicle would fail to accelerate upon the depression of the accelerator pedal as the oil pressure warning light would illuminate on the instrument panel. The contact took the vehicle to a dealer however, the dealer denied that there was a failure with her vehicle. The contact then took the vehicle to an independent mechanic who diagnosed a failure within the engine and linked the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V727000 (Engine). The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the contact was provided a case number. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 69,000.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454657March 1, 2022
ENGINE
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Tucson. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, she heard an abnormal whining sound coming from the engine. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer where it was diagnosed that no issues were found. The contact later received a recall notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V727000 (Engine). The vehicle was taken to the dealer who inspected the engine and indicated that the engine passed the inspection test; however, the engine failed days later. The cause of the failure was not yet determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 73,000.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454743March 1, 2022
ENGINE, POWER TRAIN
My 2012 Tucson engine, with 62,000 miles, locked up on 09/22/21 while I was on a trip, without warning & no check engine light came on. Luckily, I was able to coast to the small shoulder. It suddenly seized on a stretch of I15 in the mountains of the Mohave Desert. The engine completely stopped so suddenly that I was lucky I was able to coast to the shoulder. The shoulder was very narrow, so I was barely off a very busy highway, at night. The breakdown happened just before midnight. I was stuck on the side of the road as cars and trucks were flying by us, with little room to avoid hitting us. It took 4 hours to find someone who would tow my car. I was towed to Midas shop at a cost of $800. The Midas shop confirmed that my engine had seized, was full of oil, and no explanation for the engine seizing could be found. The only option was to replace the engine. I wanted a new one, but they could not find one. They found a "used" one from a 2012 Tucson, supposedly with 40,000 miles on it. The mechanic had to go to Huntington Beach to pick it up. He was amazed at the cost of the engine (much higher than they had paid for any other used engine). Ultimately the replacement cost $12,118.41. When I picked up my car on 10/15/21 I headed home to San Diego (170 miles). After approx 100 miles, the transmission suddenly stopped shifting into any gear. It would not come out of neutral. I was in a lane close enough to the shoulder to coast just far enough to get a few inches off the highway. Because it was a Friday evening, there were no auto shops open. I had no choice but to have the car towed to my house (70 miles) at a cost of $500. A local transmission shop diagnosed my transmission problem. It was due to failure of the part that pumps fluid into the transmission. Yet another problem that shouldn’t occur in a car with only 61,000 miles on it. The cost of the repair was $4,200. The failure of those parts put me in 2 very dangerous situations and cost me $20,000.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454756March 1, 2022
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, ENGINE
Electric media screen (navigation, radio and etc) died. Screen went black and would not turn on. Car wouldn’t start on first attempt this morning. Mild Southern California conditions, garage parked. Car shakes / rattles when starting and powering down
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454471February 28, 2022
ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL (ESC)
The contact owns a 2005 Hyundai Tucson. The contact stated while driving 45 MPH, the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) warning light was illuminated. The contact parked on the side of the road and restarted the vehicle. The contact stated that after restarting the vehicle, the warning light disappeared. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 109,000.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454535February 28, 2022
ENGINE
Engine warning light is on since December. Had bad code P1326 knock signal. Was told by Hyundai in Danbury i need a new CAT. I got that done for $2600 by my mechanic. engine light is still on. Return to Danbury Hyundai they perform bearing performance and said it pass. Engine light is still on. Unrealize codes 39250-2E00-Sensor Assy-Knoch. This has been going on since December 10,2021.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454373February 27, 2022
FORWARD COLLISION AVOIDANCE: ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL
It happened on two different occasions but only when driving at high speed using the Cruise Control. Here is what happened. Driving on the Cruise Control I “Set” it to 70 mph. Driving on the two lane highway with both lanes blocked by other vehicles, I pressed the “brake” pedal. The car slowed down and I continued driving at a lower speed. When traffic in front of me cleared, I pressed the “Resume” button on Cruise Control. With no obstacles in front of me, my car was supposed to accelerate to the previously set speed of 70 mph. Instead, it was slowing down. When pressing the gas pedal the car was not accelerating. It felt like the car “lost power.” It felt like the automatic transmission shifted to a Neutral or may be the lowest gear. Pushing the gas pedal did not do anything and on both occasions I managed to steer the car to a road shoulder. It was a scary situation with heavy fast moving traffic on a narrow mountain highway. I stopped the car, then tried to go again. It would go very slow on, what felt like, the lowest gear without acceleration. I then stopped the car again and turned off the engine. Turning the ignition off resets the electronics and I was able to get back on the road. The car continued to drive normally on Cruise Control until the same happened again the next day. As I said, it happened on two different occasions. From there on I avoided pushing the “Resume” button on Cruise Control and I am afraid of using it from now on to avoid potential accidents. I consider this to be a life threatening malfunction and I reported it to Hyundai’s Customer Care. They opened the Case Number and suggested going to the nearest dealer. I took the car to the nearest dealer. They kept it for several days, drove 40 miles and, as I expected, were not able to replicate the problem. In my opinion, this problem needs to be analyzed by the engineers not a dealership's technician. Is speed a factor? Is temperature a factor? What is the factor?
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454278February 26, 2022
UNKNOWN OR OTHER
My car’s infotainment constantly and consistently goes black and disconnects and reconnects when connected to Apple CarPlay. This may seem like an inconvenience at first, but it poses a real safety issue when using navigation in an area I’m unfamiliar with. In this case it can cut out for ten seconds or more as I’m about to make a turn, which can distract me or make me make a sudden move or turn to make my destination. It also cuts out phone calls, which can force me to use my phone’s speakerphone and regular phone features which require I hold and/or look at the phone while driving. This is a known Hyundai/Apple issue that seems to be impacting thousands of people. I have an iPhone XR with the latest software (15).
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454012February 25, 2022
UNKNOWN OR OTHER
Left rear door will not unlock. Numerous complaints of similar issue found online; youtube videos showing how to repair. Took our 2013 into Hyundai dealership and they wanted $800+ to repair (a known defect). Request NHTSA require Hyundai to recall the door locks and repair them at their expense.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11454191February 25, 2022
ENGINE
56k ish miles on my car, 2nd owner. Oil pressure light flickered on and off about .5 miles from home after 20 mile highway drive, steady on when pulled into driveway. Turned off car immediately. Have noticed excessive oil consumption but check and top off frequently. Topped off less than 200 miles prior. About halfway or less since last oil change mileage wise from what I recall. Checked oil and about halfway between bottom and top markers on dipstick. Took to dealer Monday (.8 miles from home). Oil light did not come back on. Dropped off. Dealer said light came on shortly after driving. Said problem could be caused by “aftermarket” oil filter aka not a OEM filter. Said would do oil & filter change to see if resolved. Yesterday (Thursday) said oil & filter change complete & oil light not on. Reiterated previously mentioned concern of engine failure and potential accident. Service advisor said hyundai will not entertain engine replacement unless oil consumption gets documented. Oil consumption test to be completed after 1000 miles or until low oil levels noticed/oil pressure light illuminates. Will pick up tomorrow to see what happens. Engine is covered under newly extended warranty if failure occurs. Service advisor says nothing else was checked internally, spark plugs, etc. as this would incur engine being taken apart and extra charges prior to hyundai “entertains” covering engine replacement etc. Although no failure has occurred yet I’m worried something will and it will result in something potentially catastrophic for not only the engine/car but myself.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11453967February 25, 2022
ENGINE, POWER TRAIN, UNKNOWN OR OTHER
The car will accelerate, but not beyond a speed of 20 - 30 MPH. The issue is intermittent, one happens in January 2022 and another one happens in Feb 2022. The issue happens after parking overnight, and the issue will go away after restarting the car. No-fault light shows up. The problem has not been reproduced by a dealer since it is intermittent. The issue is reported to the manufacturer, but no actions from the manufacturer have been taken. The issue does pose a safety risk to me and other road traffics since the problem may happen anytime on driving.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11453828February 24, 2022
ENGINE
The contact owned a 2018 Hyundai Tucson. The contact stated that while driving up a hill at 30 MPH, she heard an abnormal popping noise emitting from underneath the vehicle without warning. Upon inspection of the vehicle, the contact saw that a fire had started from underneath the front passenger side of the vehicle. The vehicle in front of hers witnessed the fire and assisted with calling the authorities to the scene. Both the fire and the police department arrived as the fire department extinguished the fire. Both a police and fire report were filed; no injuries were reported. The contact had the vehicle towed to an independent tow yard where it was deemed a total loss. Upon investigation, the contact linked her failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V543000(SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC); however, the cause of the fire had yet to be determined. Both the dealer and the manufacturer were notified of the failure. The vehicle had been destroyed. The failure mileage was unknown.
Crash:
No
Fire:
Yes
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11453726February 24, 2022
AIR BAGS, POWER TRAIN
Proceeding with flow of traffic, Southbound on a 2 lane st, I was in the curb lane. A truck exiting interstate ran through, at approx 50-60 MPH, a red light. Initial contact was made on passenger side front and rear door. He continued to push my car, and I turned the wheel to the right to avoid left lane traffic (as they couldn't move becuase of guard rail facing East) and he gunned it and pushed me into a concrete the guard rail at about 15-25 mph. The car was stuck in drive, it couldn't be put into any other gear.▪︎There were no airbag deployment at all▪︎I've missed worked since 2/11. I have severe left side injuries-neck, shoulder, upper/lower arm, wrist, and left hand, upper back pain, lower back pain, pain down the back of my legs, right shoulder pain, concussion, numbness, tingling in fingers, back, and feet. Labored breathing, bruising, headache, some loss of mobility, in constant pain, panic attacks/anxiety, under care of pulmonologist, family dr., physical therapist, chiropractor (as of now), insurance company towed car to their facility to get estimate. They have the car in their possession and the only ones to do any inspection at this point. THERE WERE ABSOLUTELY NO WARNING LIGHTS, MESSAGES, NOISES, NO WARNINGS ON BLUELINK APP, NOTHING THAT WOULD GIVE ME ANY INDICATION THERE WERE ISSUES WITH TRANSMISSION (GEAR STUCK IN DRIVE) OR AIRBAG MALFUNCTIONS.
Crash:
Yes
Fire:
No
Injuries:
1
Deaths:
0
#11453741February 24, 2022
ENGINE
On 2-23-2022 , I was driving approximately 30 MPH when all of a sudden there was a noise that kept getting louder which sounded like a knocking or broken fan, the vehicle RPM increased, the vehicle hesitated, did not accelerate, stalled, the check oil and engine light came on, I coasted into parking lot. When I opened the hood, there was no signs of smoke, oil leak, or smells, however, when I went to check the oil, smoke came out of where the oil dip stick goes. I attempted to have the vehicle jump started with no luck, just a clicking sound. I had the vehicle towed to be serviced.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11453707February 23, 2022
ENGINE
Drove over a pothole and car began to make a weird clicking noise.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11453339February 22, 2022
UNKNOWN OR OTHER
The drivers side door almost never opens, I have to open the passenger side door to gain entry into the vehicle. In addition, the drivers side window at times will not open. I am not sure if this is an electrical problem. On occasion, this also happens on the passenger side. I do not want to be trapped in my car or have my passengers trapped. Previously the drivers side back door would not open and the dealership replaced the latch. At times I still have issues with the door opening from the inside and out, despite being unlocked. Rear driver side door does not open. It is not locked, child locks are not on. After reading multiple online forums it appears Hyundai is aware of the issue and not creating a Recall for this issue. The lock actuator needs to be replaced, Hyundai is charging outrageous fees to have this resolved. This is a HUGE safety issue. If the vehicle is in an accident any person sitting in the front drivers side, front passenger side and back seatsof the vehicle would not be able to get out of the vehicle on the rear driver side of the vehicle. This is a huge safety concern if I were in an accident and could not open this door. I have seen DOZENS of other reports of people having this same issue and a recall should be issued immediately to fix this potential life threatening and dangerous issue.
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0
#11453396February 22, 2022
ENGINE
When I drive my car and right after I put gas in my car I smell gas to the point that my husband and I are coming home with headaches and we're sick to her stomach I've taken it to a mechanic and they say there's nothing wrong the engine check engine light keep on coming on and then it will go off after it sit for a couple minutes turned off I'm about ready to have a baby in June and I'm so worried to have the baby in the car the brakes have stopped working to the point that I've gone in through lights and I can hardly put the brakes on I have to use emergency brake sometimes and nobody will help me get it taken care of I have had almost couple wrecks because I cannot get the brakes to stop take a lock on me and it's scary when you're having a baby and you know your seatbelt your brakes are locking but you for your seat belt to keep safe and my brakes locked to the point I cannot get them after the kick hit them with all my might just to unlock them and nobody will help me fix it
Crash:
No
Fire:
No
Injuries:
0
Deaths:
0

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