THE FIRST TIME I HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE DOOR LOCKS THE L/R DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN. AFTER SOME TIME I WAS ABLE TO OPEN THE DOOR BY MANUALLY HOLDING THE UNLOCK BUTTON WHILE PULLING ON THE DOOR HANDLE. A FEW MONTHS LATER THE R/R DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK. I COULD NOT UNLOCK THE DOOR FROM EITHER INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, THIS MAKES 2 DOORS INOPERABLE. SOME TIME LATER,THE R/F DOOR WON'T UNLOCK OR OPEN FROM OUTSIDE. THE R/F DOOR CAN BE OPENED BY HOLDING UP ON THE UNLOCK BUTTON AND PULLING ON THE INSIDE DOOR HANDLE . THIS MAKES 3 DOORS DOWN, ALSO, DOOR LOCKS MAKE A WHINING NOISE, WHAT A DEATH TRAP. I AM 72 YEARS OLD AND I HAVE NEVER IN MY LIFE SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS. I WAS TOLD THAT REPAIR COST WOULD BE ABOUT 350.00 PER DOOR. THANK YOU. *JB
No injuries · No fire · No crash
BEFORE OUR FACTORY WARRANTY WAS UP THE DEALERSHIP FIXED OUR CATALYTIC CONVERTER 3 TIMES. AFTER OUR EXTENDED WARRANTY WAS UP WE IN THE LAST 6 MONTHS HAD TO FIX BOTH UPPER CAMBER ARMS, DRIVER SIDE AXEL, TIRE ROD ENDS ON BOTH SIDES, DRIVER SIDE WHEEL BEARINGS, AND NOW JUST YESTERDAY WE BROKE DOWN. THE BELT PULLEY TENSIONER WENT. THE MAZDA PARTS CO. HAD TOLD ME THAT THEY HAD THIS PART IN STOCK ABOUT 10 MINUTES AGO BUT SOLD IT. THIS IS A $300.00 PART AND THE MAINTNENCE IS ABOUT $500.00 TO HAVE THEM FIX IT. I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THERE HASN'T BEEN ANY RECALLS ON THIS VEHICLE. THE TRADE IN VALUE ISN'T EVEN WHAT WE OWE ON THE CAR. WE STILL HAVE 2 1/2 YEARS OF PAYMENTS. THE CAR WAS BURNING SOMETHING BUT THERE WAS NO FIRE. IT WAS THE BELT FALLING OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING. *NM
No injuries · No fire · No crash
THE IGNITION COILS IN MY CAR ARE GOING BAD. ONE RIGHT AFTER THE OTHER. MAZDA TOLD ME THAT THE HEAT OF THE ENGINE (MILLER CYCLE) IS CAUSING THIS. I THINK THE ENGINE WAS POORLY DESIGNED. THERE ARE 6 COILS & I HAVE REPLACED 3 SO FAR, 1 IN 12/04 & 2 IN 4/06 ALONG WITH ALL THE PLUGS. THIS PROBLEM STARTED IN 2002 WHEN CYLINDER #4 WAS MISFIRING. MAZDA REPLACED THE SPARK PLUG. THE COIL IN CYLINDER #4 WAS THE FIRST COIL TO GO BAD. THE ORIGINAL PLUGS WERE CHAMPION. I WAS TOLD THESE WERE THE WRONG PLUGS ESPECIALLY FOR THIS TYPE OF HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE. MAZDA SAID TO EXPECT TO REPLACE THE OTHER 3 COILS. & THEN WHAT? DO WE START OVER AGAIN? MY CAR ONLY HAS 32,000 MILES ON IT. BOTH CATALYTIC CONVERTERS HAVE BEEN REPLACED. I THINK MAZDA SHOULD DO SOMETHING TO CORRECT THE DESIGN OF THIS ENGINE TO ALLOW THE COILS MORE AIR. *JB
No injuries · No fire · No crash
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR BROKE AND THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE. TO EXIT THE VEHICLE, THE PASSENGER MUST EXIT FROM THE DRIVER'S SIDE. THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP WAS CONTACTED AND OFFERED TO REPAIR THE ACTUATOR. THE PRICE WAS $400.00 PER DOOR. THE CONTACT REPAIRED THE DOOR AT THE COST OF 220.00 NOW, THE REAR DOOR WAS MAKING THE SAME NOISE MADE BY THE FRONT DOOR, INDICATING THE DOOR IS READY TO FAIL. THE REPAIR IS EXPENSIVE AND UNPREDICTABLE. THE ACTUATORS COULD FAIL AT ANY TIME AND LOCK ONE IN THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT FELT IT WAS DANGEROUS AND UNSAFE.*AK
No injuries · No fire · No crash
LAST YEAR MY CAR STARTED TO EMIT GAS FUMES AS SOON AS I STARTED TO DRIVE IT. AFTER DRIVING FOR A FEW MINUTES THE SMELL WENT AWAY. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER MANY TIMES. EACH TIME THEY TOLD ME IT WAS A SENSOR WHICH COST ME THREE- FOUR HUNDRED DOLLARS. HOWEVER THE PROBLEM HAS NEVER STOPPED. *JB
No injuries · No fire · No crash